Off Piuma Road in Calabasas is a haven in gastronomy called Saddle Peak Lodge. The restaurant, which celebrates its 40th year this month, has won awards (Zagat’s “Award of Distinction,†“Number 1 “New American†Restaurant,†Wine Spectator’s “Award of Excellence,†Michelin and Gourmet Magazine; too numerous to mention, and trust me, I could go on and on) for its unparalleled ambiance, food, wine and stellar service.
The rustic restaurant, around for almost 100 years, was originally a waystop and general store along the Las Virgenes Canyon trail. It evolved into a summer fishing and game resort after being discovered by Hollywood luminaries such as Errol Flynn, Mary Pickford and Charlie Chaplin. In 1963 the hitching post (yes, you could ride your horse to the door!) was decommissioned and a ne
w dining room was added. Then in 1985 under the ownership of Albert Ehringer, who created its unique vibe—massive timbers, log walls and native rock coupled with rustic wooden chairs, elegant white table linens, saloon paintings, trophy mounts and romantic candlelight dining—it became a sanctuary of fine dining and sumptuous elegance.
Current proprietor Dr. Ann Ehringer, who has owned the restaurant for nearly 19 years, modestly claims, “I’m not a restaurateur, I’m a business professor.†Ehringer, who taught at USC and got into her present profession “accidentally,†says “I try to hire the best people I can, motivate them and give them every opportunity to do what they do best, and they do.†Accident or not, Ehringer was born for this role and the Lodge you see today is a direct result of her visi
on and business acumen. She runs the restaurant on a value, not a business basis, (promoting from within, tending to her employees with love and caring and running the place like a family business) which translates to the most wonderful dining experience for patrons.
Their chef, Adam C. Horton doesn’t have the “traditional chef’s story†i.e., he wasn’t cooking with grandma when he was six years old. He was working for Cisco, staring at computer screens all day, when he decided, “I’m done with this. I want to be a chef.†He started out at SPL as a line cook; went to Europe, studied, came back to the states, worked at Mélisse in Santa Monica, and then returned to SPL; a testament to the adage that you can change your life at any age, be anything you want, and do it exceptionally well. As his background is purely French he brings a more contemporary feel to the food, refining the sauces and the portions and making everything pretty darn delicious.
While it is the most romantic restaurant in Los Angeles; certainly not to be missed if you’re on that special date, romance aside, let’s get to the most important aspect of the Lodge, its victuals…
We started off our meal with a sampling of pumpkin Parmesan soup. The delicate flavor of the pumpkin enhanced and fortified by the cheese and the texture is all at once, distinct and sublime.
Do not miss the seared foie gras with a study of organic applies, brioche and duck gastrique. All I can say is, “I’m in love;†the balance of flavors beyond perfection.
Saddle Peak Lodge is known for its international game presentation so we ventured into unknown territory with New Zealand elk tenderloin with celery root, sweet potato, crispy bacon arugula, currants and sauce chaser, and the wild game trio that consisted of the elk, boar and antelope. With respect to the boar, Horton’s dish is so tender it melts in your mouth and is quite possibly the best I’ve ever tasted. Horton explains the dish was a mistake, “A farm called saying they had some small boar ribs that they weren’t going to use. I braised off a batch and ended up forgetting about them. When you slow cook ribs that long in the oven they become completely tender and flavorful.†He serves the boar with spinach and a brown butter pomme puree.
As for desert, the freeform cheesecake from pastry chef Kasra Ajdari is exquisite. It incorporates fresh cranberries and orange zest and is served with graham cracker ice cream. And of the bread pudding, which approaches crème brulée status, Horton says, “We use croissants instead of more traditional firmer bread, and pour it pretty heavy with the cream and egg mixture. In all essence it’s more of a pudding.†Indeed, a pudding from heaven.
You really cannot go wrong with anything on the menu, as you’re in such capable culinary hands. Saddle Peak Lodge is truly the best restaurant in Los Angeles; a gastronomic indulgence you’ll want to experience again and again and again.
A quick glance at the brochure states “there’s a ghostly woman with dark hair who occasionally appears at Table 41 upstairs.†We didn’t see any ghosts, but as for the brunette trolling around that might be me, since Saddle Peak Lodge just became my new favorite haunt.
Must tries:
Wild mushroom ravioli with ricotta salata, roasted wild mushrooms and Perigord truffle butter; Caviar bellinis with smoked salmon; the salmon is cured with sugar, salt, pernod, dill and spices; Antelope, served with couscous and a game stock reduction and finished with tarragon and chervil.
419 Cold Canyon Rd. (just off Piuma Rd.), Calabasas, CA 91302; 818-222-3888 www.saddlepeaklodge.com
