You stand in the mirror and stare at that dreaded red spot that looks like the Himalayas. It’s a pimple – a zit – and you’re wondering why this keeps happening to you.
Unlike the movie, “My Big Fat Greek Wedding,” no one thinks you should just shoot a little Windex at the problem.
The truth is you might be approaching real acne cures in the wrong way because all acne is not created equal. In fact, what you’re doing to cure your pimple problem could easily be making it worse or chronically much worse.
Here is a quick primer on how to take care of the problem for the doctors at the KO’AN Center in Santa Monica who start at ground zero – your face without the eruptions.
Dr. Barbara Hayden notes, “Acne is generally associated with hormonal changes in teen skin, but acne can show up at any time. You have to figure out what kind of acne you’re experiencing to truly fix the problem.”
Congestion
What is erupting: Congestion is usually found in patients that have black heads or closed comedones. Congestion is classified has having sebum trapped in the hair follicle. This sebum is usually dry and sticky and is unable to be wicked completely out of the follicle. Mixing this mess with dead skin cells gives rise to the increase of congestion, making for lumpy skin texture.
The quick fix: Congestion can be minimized with a few daily-cleansing tips. Most people ask how long they need to use these products or do these steps. My answer is as long as you decide to keep your face and body. These steps can help, but it doesn’t change our DNA.
The life changing fix: If your skin is not smooth and has a lot of texture to it, it’s likely you have a lot of closed comedones. Most people will have almost every follicle filled with this sticky debris. Proper products, exfoliation, and extractions are your first line of defense. Most likely the patient will need at least four deep cleansing facials with extraction before they can get this condition under control.
Prevention: Use a good enzyme cleanser with the Clarisonic brush daily. It’s important that a light exfoliation is done daily either night or day that does not strip the skin. Baborganic Enzyme Cleanser or ELTA MD Enzyme Cleanser are two that we recommend at the KO’AN Center that lightly remove skin cells that build up through the day. If you are heavily congested, there are KO’AN complexion correct pads have salicylic and glycolic that can be used two to three times a week at night can help smooth out texture. Hydration helps to slow down oil production. We recommend a KO’AN Hyluronic Acid serum and a light hydrating moisturizer to seal in moisture. One of the reasons that skin over produces oil is dehydration, as the skin is working to prevent moisture loss. Also, patients tend to be more congested in drier regions then in states that have humidity. So if you live in a dry region, you should be diligent with moisturizing.
Secret weapon: A balance of exfoliation of skin cells and proper hydration. The consumption of omega-3 fatty acids can slow down oil production.
Watch Out: Over exfoliating with harsh glycolic and salicylic cleansers and pads. These products are great as a treatment two to three times a week or even daily to start, but staying on these harsh products too long causes the skin to defend itself, creating even more oil leading to worse problems.
Acneitic Skin
What is erupting: Acneitic skin will have Propionibacterium (P.bacteria) present on and in the skin. With the combination of closed comedones and bacteria, the skin will be inflamed and these lesions will hurt, be infected and cause scaring. Sebum can cause inflammation and will result as a pustule. Acne is caused by over production of skin cells and overactive sebaceous glands which is usually triggered by the hormone androgen.
The Quick Fix: Go get a professional peel. Three major elements are out of balance in acneitic skin:
1. Over production of sticky, dehydrated skin cells that will not shed off (desquamation)
2. Over production of oil
3. PH levels of skin close o 6.2 which is a great environment for P. bacteria to flourish.
The Life Changing Fix: Deep salicylic & glycolic peel done at a MD’s office. Even though estheticians can and do treat patients for acne, the stronger peels are normally only done by doctors. This type of peel will help knock down acne bacteria, rid the skin of extra skin cells and open up some of the follicles to aid in extractions. Weekly deep cleansing and extraction facials and home care are recommended for at least 6 to 8 weeks.
Prevention:
Good daily home care is critical to the prevention of acne. Use of glycolic cleanser in morning and an enzyme cleanser at night with a Clarisonic brush, to start. We recommend the KO’AN Acne Wash that contains both salicylic and glycolic acids. Toner balances the skin’s ph. Additionally, salicylic and glycolic pads tone skin and help keep bacteria under control while adding extra exfoliation when needed. Daily use of a hydrating moisturizer that is non-comedogenic is also key. Moisturizing the skin and keeping it protected helps minimize oil production. The KO’AN Renewal Creme has sufficient hydration to keep the skin moist with an added boost of acids. TCA and Retinol help to reduce and kill bacteria. Used only at night, the combination of TCA and Retinol is part of the arsenal to keep acne under control.
Your Secret Skin Care Weapon: In addition to a moisturizer, hyaluronic acid serums are usually enough hydration for patients who are extra oily. Keeping skin free of bacteria without sensitizing it is a key component to a healthy, acne-free complexion.
Watch Out: Products that strip and sensitize the skin of acneitic patients can lead to deeper problems. Minimize products that make the skin feel tight, dry and flaky for long periods of time. The skin has natural defenses to keep P.bacteria under control, but when we use products that are too harsh, it compromises the skin’s natural barrier function. Most of the time patients misdiagnose themselves by using products not made for their skin type or fear using any type of products because it will cause a break out.
Cystic Acne
What is erupting: P.bacteria can cause inflammation and pus that expands the follicles to form nodules under the skin. This type of acne is severe and is characterized by large painful nodules under the skin and inflamed lesions with white centered bumps outside the skin. They are very sensitive to touch and have a red base. When nodules and cysts are present on the skin, acne scarring is usually part of the cystic acne look.
The quick fix: Do not go for trying to pick it yourself. You will make the problem much worse, spreading bacteria into other follicles and this will lead to scarring.
The life changing fix: Just like the acnetic patient, cystic acne needs deep peels usually 2 times per month. This condition is not impossible to treat, but needs a broader arsenal to control. Facials are a big part of controlling cystic acne. Most patients will grow out of this condition, but it may take years to get under control. To get the situation under control we recommend facials weekly and strong peels 2 times per month for the first three months. It takes a while to beat down the bacteria without harming skin or causing future scarring for the patient. Regenlite laser is used every other week for 12 weeks to control the break out by triggering the bodies natural immune response. The Regenlite laser is done on the off weeks of the medical peels. Patients visit the clinic once a week to either get a controlling salicylic and glycolic peel with extractions, or deep cleansing with Regenlite.
Prevention: Regenlite also helps to repair acne scars and prevent future scars from forming. The patient’s cystic acne that usually takes harsh medication and months to control can be knocked down within two months. Home care is extremely important during this time. Cleansing is also critical. KO’AN Acne Wash and Spray are used on a daily bases. Once skin is under control can be used two to three times a week.
Your secret skin car weapon: Enyzme Cleanser with the Clarisonic brush is recommended at night. Complexion Correction Pads are used two to three times a week for prevention. The KO’AN Acne Wand is perfect for travel and can be used as a spot treatment to cover acne and kill bacteria. Hyaluronic acid serum and toners are needed for hydration and protection. Depending on the patient, Tretinoin and Retinols are recommended to control future break outs, but should be prescribed and monitored by a medical aesthetician or doctor.
Watch out: Using products for too long is a common mistake. Important rule about products: if you’re not getting relief from products you are using within a 60 day period, they are probably not right for you.
Do you have a skin care question? Email info@koancenter.com. Ko-An Santa Monica is located at 1301 20th Street, Suite 150A, Santa Monica, CA 90404. For more information, call 310.315.3022 or visit www.koancenter.com.
